tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16589733041507967762024-03-18T22:58:52.320-04:00log of the anhingaWe are John Johnson and Patti Litman and this is the story of our adventure!SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.comBlogger300125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-47288000160316955122016-01-27T11:50:00.001-05:002016-01-27T12:14:19.336-05:001-20 January 2016 Cruising Again...First Stop - Rock Sound, EleutheraAfter a long wait, we finally got the right weather to cross from Lake Worth to the Bahamas. We were well prepared and provisioned, even had the time to get a new hefty anchor chain -- 150 feet of G4 7/16" chain. By waiting we had an uneventful crossing, went through the Fleeming (Fleming?) Channel at night (no issues) and puttered into Rock Sound on Sunday 3 January.
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Wednesday night, 6 January, a derecho came right through Eleuthera. A derecho is a straight line storm with incredibly strong winds. We clocked winds of 46 knots (around 70 mph) which was about what we had when we sat out Hurricane Arthur in 2014. Unfortunately, this was a LOT worse. (Other people in Bahamas saw between 70 and 100 knots!!!) We were in a bigger body of water this time with a long fetch creating HUGE waves over the bow. The bouncing of the boat in the water was fierce. We broke our chain snubber (the line and hook that hold the anchor chain, taking tension from the chain and windlass -- see photo of recovered end of snubber), so the chain played out. By the time we got organized to replace the snubber, all the chain had broken free of the boat and we lost the chain and anchor.
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Of course it is nighttime, so we have a hard time seeing, but we had to start roaming the anchorage to stay in deep water (much of the water in this sound is too shallow for us). John prepared our secondary anchor -- he had to tie it onto the anchor line in the sheets of rain and spray coming at him. He almost lost his glasses overboard, so put them in the cockpit and finished the job without seeing clearly! Patti was driving the boat, trying to keep it from going up on the rocks while the huge winds and waves pushed us every which way.
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In one of his passes through the cockpit, John said our dinghy (which was tied to the back of the boat) was upside down. Which meant that the engine was submerged and everything stored in the bow locker was now gone. We had kept the dinghy down, because we thought there would be too much windage if we had it up on the davits. With the predicted winds being 20-30 knots, with +5 knots in squalls, we thought it would be better to let the dinghy ride behind the boat in the water. Well, maybe we were wrong about that. So now we are roaming the anchorage with an upside down dinghy.
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After about an hour we were able to deploy the secondary anchor and stop the boat. But, there was no way to get into the water (in the dark and stormy) and right the dinghy. So we had to leave it till morning.
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Next morning, Thursday, winds were still about 20, but we were able to move to a better spot and re-anchor. A couple of cruisers came by in their dinghys and helped us by taking our turtled dinghy and flipping it over for us on the beach. Now we were able to get our motor off the dinghy and start the process of trying to save it by cleaning out the salt water. The water was still rough, so we were not able to search for the chain and anchor, but we anchored fairly close to where it should be. (We had GPS location info from the chartplotter.)
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Friday, we found the chain and anchor. One of the guys gave us a grapple hook that John trailed over the dinghy while Patti rowed in the location where we thought it should be. After about a half hour, eureka!, we found it. We tied a fender to the chain as a float and were just trying to figure out how to get it back onto the boat when the cavalry arrived. Another cruiser spent about 2 hours helping us get the chain to the boat. Once we found the end, we were able to get it over the bow roller and use the windlass to crank it all back onto the boat. We pulled up the 'lost' anchor, then pulled up the secondary anchor, and re-anchored with the primary.
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We spent the next week working on the dinghy motor, rinsed it with fresh water, replaced the oil (twice), replaced the gear grease, replaced the spark plugs and shot water out of the spark plug holes, removed the carburetor, rinsed, cleaned, and dried every nook and cranny (probably took the carb apart about 6 times...), and got it working. Then we had another cold front, put the motor on Anhinga's rail, and waited out the storm. A couple of days later, remounted the motor on the dinghy, and guess what. It wasn't working. Then the ultimate insult. As we were putting it back on the rail to work on it, all the seals and gaskets must have let go and oil sprang from everywhere! We looked at each other and knew it was the end.
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We called Trevor Pinder of Pinder's Marine in Deep Creek, Eleuthera, and asked him to get us a new Yamaha. He said if we told him we wanted it, and could come up with the cash (not easy in Eleuthera, but that's another story) he would get it on the mailboat that day and it would be on our dinghy the next morning! Trevor came through for us. We took possession of the new Yamaha 15 hp 2-stroke on 19 January.
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So ends our tale of woe. But we can't finish the story without giving thanks to the ladies at the Wild Orchids restaurant, especially Colleen, Crystal, and Shavell, who lived through this with us on a daily basis -- letting us use their phones, and smiling when we needed it. And of course the other cruisers who gave us their brawn, their equipment, and moral support -- thank you Lucky One, Runaway, Barefootin', Sophia, and Re Metau. We didn't feel so lost with you around.
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Rock Sound west: 24d51.732'N 76d11.140'W
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Rock Sound east: 24d51.849'N 76d09.818'W
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Rock Sound during derecho: 24d51.291'N 76d09.759'W
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Rock Sound east again: 24d52.055'N 76d09.899'W
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(there were 2 more reanchorings in Rock Sound...but this is enough!)SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-54074090387987112432015-12-21T11:59:00.001-05:002015-12-21T12:52:26.816-05:00November - December 2015... Return to South FloridaOur first stop after returning from Israel was Delray Beach, where we helped Renee and Irv get ready for their transoceanic cruise. Once they were off we spent many hours getting Anhinga back in shape after being 'stored' in the slip in Stuart, FL, and provisioning for winter cruising. We split our time between Delray and Stuart, finally moving Anhinga to West Palm Beach in early December.
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In the back of our minds we knew one day we would have to break down and buy a new anchor chain, but were hopeful that we could get one more year out of what we had. Well, when we put out the chain to anchor in WPB, we noticed way too much rust and upon closer examination, saw the links were actually thinning. Knowing that our travels would take us too far away to buy chain at a reasonable price, we did the right thing. Now we have a gorgeous chain with very solid links and have no problem sleeping at night.
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The only problem waiting for the chain delivery was that it made us miss the last decent weather window for crossing to the Bahamas. Well, there are worse places to wait than WPB! We are in a great location and can take advantage of all 'the Palm Beaches' have to offer. One wonderful new thing this year is the CANVAS Outdoor Exhibition of murals. We have enjoyed the murals in years past, and this year there was a concerted effort to get renown artists from around the world to paint West Palm Beach. So, we walked around with the camera one day to record them, as well as some unofficial art we saw along the way. Enjoy!<br />
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<br />SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-82067275453286194342015-12-20T15:53:00.001-05:002015-12-21T12:47:31.796-05:00September 16 - October 21, 2015... IsraelA June email from cousin Doron in Tel Aviv announcing his impending marriage to Or decided our itinerary for the fall. We would put Anhinga in a marina and take the opportunity to go to Israel, attend the wedding, see family, and tour the country. Lots of arrangements to make, but we did it. A slip for Anhinga at the Sunset Bay Marina in Stuart, FL, flights from Miami to Tel Aviv, and several Airbnb reservations and we were set to go. John took literally thousands of photos in Israel. It was hard to pick a select few to illustrate the blog and recapture the 5 weeks there, but here goes. We divided the trip into 4 parts: 1) Tel Aviv and family, 2) Jerusalem, 3) the southern deserts, and 4) the north from the Golan to the Mediterranean.
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Tel Aviv and Family
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Patti's family in Israel began with European refugees -- her grandfather's nephew (or mother's cousin) and the family that grew to the now four generations established in and around Tel Aviv. It made sense to start the visit there, reconnecting with family. Yona and Shmulik and Avi and Maggie took us on initial visits in Tel Aviv, Jaffa, and Rishon LeZion, giving us our land legs back. We walked everywhere, learned the bus system, Patti reminiscing about previous visits and how much things have changed, John learning very basic Hebrew. And of course we indulged in the very best felafel and hummus. Tel Aviv is a cosmopolitan city (skyscrapers and everything) right next to the sea, and the original buildings and neighborhoods from the early 20th century are being gentrified everywhere.
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The highlight was Doron and Or's wedding
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Jerusalem
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We spent almost a week in Jerusalem and still felt that we only scraped the surface. How do you absorb thousands of years of history in a week? We started with the free Saturday morning walking tours offered by the city. Three hours with a knowledgable guide help set the stage. The first one we took focused on the Via Dolorosa in the Old City, the second to the Mount of Olives, just outside. In between we walked through every sector of the Old City, outside the Old City up Jaffa Road to the Machaneh Yehudah market, the Nachlaot neighborhood (where we stayed), to the Israel Museum, and via the light rail to the Yad Vashem memorial museum. The photos here are not even a tenth of those we have -- Jerusalem is a very photogenic subject. See the Dome of the Rock, Al Aqsa mosque, the Lion Gate, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, church of the Flagellation, Mary Magdalene church, Church of All Nations, and the Western Wall.
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Outside the Old City -- Jaffa Road, the market, the Israel Museum including the Shrine of the Book, and a couple of photos from outside Yad Vashem -- the Holocaust Memorial and Museum. The train car is an actual transport car from Europe. Perhaps one of the most difficult and emotional memorials is the Valley of the Communities. Carved into rock and set in a maze-like formation are the names of 10,000 cities and towns from which Jews were taken and Jewish life exterminated. Krzemieniec (Kremenitz) is the town Patti's grandfather left before WWII.
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The Southern Deserts
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We rented a car for a couple of weeks to cover the country outside the cities. For a country the size of New Jersey, there is an incredible diversity to the landscape. The south is mostly desert -- the Negev and the Arava. While the cities are crowded, the south (which begins just an hour south of Tel Aviv) is very empty. Every once in a while we would see date groves and vineyards that are 'making the desert bloom'.
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We started our explorations near Sde Boker, staying in Midreshet Ben Gurion. Buying a National Parks Green Card in Ein Avdat, we proceeded to visit over a dozen parks and archeological sites over the next two weeks. At Ein Avdat we visited the graves of the first Prime Minister of Israel, Ben Gurion and his wife, and hiked the Wadi Zin, with the ibex that found the water here.
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This part of the desert was on the 'Spice Route' of the ancient Nabateans, as they traveled from the east through Petra, Jordan to these parts, and on to the Mediterranean. Avdat was one of their towns.
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Maktesh Ramon is a huge crater in the Negev. Though we planned to hike through several sections here, Patti's bad cold limited our ramblings. So, we took some short walks -- one to the ammonite fossil wall where you can see lots of these old sea creatures.
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Our next stop was in Paran, a small farming community in the Arava. We stayed in a shipping container that had been outfitted as a small apartment. (Yes, it was air conditioned.) Our hosts couldn't be nicer, showing us their pepper farm, inviting us to join the family for dinner, and helping us fix a tire (during the holidays when just about everything is closed.) With Paran as our base we traveled further south to Timna, another desert park with beautiful rock formations and ancient copper mines. The colors here were completely different from those of the more northern deserts.
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Our last stop in the south was Masada, near the Dead Sea -- the desert palace of King Herod and the location of the last stand of the Jews who fought for freedom from the Romans. The dramatic story of Roman siege and the heroism of the last inhabitants is told very well in the new museum at the base of the mountain. We did go at dawn to walk up the snake path to the palace -- but it rained that morning (in the desert!!) so we did not get to see the sunrise. It is hard to believe what people accomplished building this place 2,000 years ago, and we cannot believe that it is all still here for us to see now.
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The North -- from the Golan and the Galilee to the Mediterranean.
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In less than a day we drove from Masada to Rosh Pina in the Galilee, which became our base for exploring the north. We took full advantage of all the natural and historical sites here, starting with the Hula Valley (where we looked for the bird migration -- but must have been too early), continuing into the Banias near Mount Hermon, where we saw waterfalls and rushing streams -- quite a contrast to our week in the desert.
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We drove on to Nimrod Fortress, a beautifully preserved mountaintop citadel, built by the Arabs during the crusader era. Again, we are amazed at what continues to be standing there.
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Driving through this region, we are constantly reminded of the recent wars of 1967 and 1973. There are signs warning of mines, and flags indicating war memorials. We took one day and drove in the Golan to Mount Bental, where we walked through the bunkers. UN observers were there the day we visited. A welcome spot on the mountain was Coffee Annan (a tribute to Kofi Annan) where we could stop and warm up.
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Archeological sites are everywhere in Israel, and some of the best are in the north. Among our favorites are Bet Shean, a Roman town south of the Sea of Galilee (Kinneret) and Zippori, west of Nazareth. Both of these sites are still being excavated. Bet Shean has an amphitheater, two main roads lined with columns (a cardo), baths, and mosaics. We climbed the hill to get the best view.
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Zippori is full of surprises. The highlights here are definitely the mosaics -- from a synagogue, houses, baths and other public areas. We were floored by how intact these were, even though people have known of their existence for hundreds of years -- they weren't destroyed or looted.
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Caesarea is another of King Herod's masterworks. Unfortunately, much of this ancient city's archeological remains are being squeezed out by the new restaurants and shops added to the site. These is still lots to see, the amphitheater, the palace remains, mosaics, and the aqueduct, but it is less of a 'find' and more of a tourist attraction.
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Akko is an Arab city on the Mediterranean. Everyone has been here -- Romans, Crusaders, Arabs. We lingered here one day eating at a cafe on the water -- happy to smell the sea again. The highlight was definitely the visit to the mosque -- what an incredibly beautiful building. St. John's church was also visible from many angles -- stark white against the blue sky.
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After our return to Tel Aviv, we spent some nice lazy days walking in the city again. Our last tourist outing was to Haifa, the mountain city on the sea. With cousin Brenda, we raced up the hill to visit the Baha'i Temple, which was going to close at noon! We soon found out we were in good enough physical shape to do that -- but just. Let's just say that sitting later on the train back to Tel Aviv was welcome.
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Five weeks in Israel. A whirlwind. But unforgettable!SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-51819960459609257562015-07-22T15:10:00.001-04:002015-07-24T12:12:00.454-04:003-7 July 2015... Bogue Lagoon, Jamaica<div dir="ltr">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">We stopped waiting for weather, since we knew it would all be the same, and headed west and downwind again for Montego Bay. Our plan was to anchor off the Yacht Club, pay to use the facilities, and clear out of Jamaica here. We turned off the ocean into Montego Bay and got slammed with 31 knot winds -- the water was pretty churned up too. But we went down to the harbor and immediately saw that there was nowhere in shallow water to anchor (lots of derelict boats clogging up the harbor), and where there was space, it was very deep and we would pretty much be swinging into the cruise ship turning basin. And it was rough! So, we turned Anhinga back, went around Freeport island, made our way through the coral reef and boogied into Bogue Lagoon. Aaahhh!!!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">Bogue Lagoon is a mangrove-lined bay. Even when the wind is howling, the water here is smooth. We found a nice spot to anchor just near the northeast corner in front of the Houseboat Grill. Lots of birds -- frigates by the dozen, egrets, pelicans -- and fish jumping all around us. We were warned about the bugs, but given the drought, there were not very many. The folks at the Houseboat Grill were very nice to us and let us tie our dinghy up to their dock. We did go there for dinner and it was great to see Anhinga, in front of the hills on the outskirts of Montego Bay. </span></div>
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">We walked into town, visited Sam Sharpe Square and read about the slave rebellion he led. Slavery was abolished in Jamaica early in the 19th century. We also walked up the 'Hip Strip' where the hotels, restaurants, gift shops, and beaches are. The biggest place was Margaritaville -- bowing to the gods of tourism, we stopped in for lunch and watched people slide into the water from a great big tube slide and bounce on giant floating trampolines. What will they think of next?</span></div>
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">We did clear out of the country at the Yacht Club, and left at first light for the 800-mile journey back to the US.</span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Bogue Lagoon: 18d27.292'N 77d56.138'W</span><br />
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SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-69519899230857235312015-07-22T14:48:00.001-04:002015-07-24T12:17:47.723-04:0029 June - 3 July 2015... Discovery Bay, Jamaica<div dir="ltr">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;"><span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Next stop -- Discovery Bay. We had heard this was a pretty bay, good place to stop. Well, not so much. First off, with the winds we were having, there was very little protection in this bay. So, we bounced and rolled. Secondly, this is the port for bauxite loading. The dust was everywhere -- coating the boat. Who knows how much aluminum we could have smelted out of the powder insinuating itself into every nook and cranny of Anhinga or that we inhaled during our stay. (James Bond fans may recognize the bauxite dome as it appeared in the movie, Dr. No.) And thirdly, there is absolutely nothing worth going ashore for here -- we looked hard -- we really did. So, should we ever cruise the north coast of Jamaica again -- we would give this place a miss.</span></span></span></div>
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SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-90692720445379577982015-07-22T14:28:00.001-04:002015-07-22T14:46:21.498-04:0023-29 June 2015... Oracabessa, Jamaica<div dir="ltr">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">We left Port Antonio and realized how protected the harbor was when we got outside. Maybe 10-12 kts inside, 20 gusting 25 outside. (We soon found out that those conditions were to be constant while we were in Jamaica.) Made our way downwind to Oracabessa, a day hop. Very calm in this tiny tiny fishermen's harbor. If there had been even one more boat in there, we might not have found space. But, we did. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">To start our exploration, we got the kayak down (it seemed silly to use the dinghy in such a small place) and went to shore at what we found out was the Goldeneye Resort. There, Munroe became our newest acquaintance -- everyday she let us put our kayak on their dock and use the construction road and gate. So we made our way either to town, or to catch a route taxi further afield -- we visited Port Maria (which has a terrific little library) and St. Ann (which has a fabulous market) via taxi. Our biggest exploration though was our VERY long walk to Firefly, Sir Noel Coward's house.<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Firefly was about a four mile walk from Oracabessa around the peninsula on flat land, then a two mile hike up the hill. We successfully reached Firefly, but had to stop and rehydrate with Ting -- our other favorite drink in Jamaica. Noel Coward's house was wonderful. He had it built to take full advantage of the view, and to accommodate his lifestyle. It was really quite modest for such a successful person -- just a few rooms including his painting studio, a small room with a piano, a bedroom, and the best room -- the room with the view. There were photos everywhere of all the celebrities who had visited -- including the Queen Mum. The grounds were large, and he is buried on site. Hands down, this was the best place we visited in Jamaica. Maybe someday when we move back on land, and we are quite famous, we too will have a place like this... </span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Oracabessa: 18d24.447'N 76d56.887'W</span></div>
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SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-90466142737570616802015-07-22T12:51:00.001-04:002015-07-22T13:25:58.702-04:003-23 June 2015... Port Antonio, Jamaica<div dir="ltr">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">Left Conception Island for Long Island, staging for Jamaica from Clarence Town. The harbor was incredibly choppy -- didn't remember it being so uncomfortable. We took refuge on land at the Rowdy Boys till the time was right to leave. Out the harbor into even a bigger chop -- a bad hour as we got the boat settled and the winds died a bit -- then a comfortable sail overnight to Great Inagua. Anchored in beautifully calm crystal clear water, we rested up for a couple of days. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">With the right weather we took off through the Windward Passage to Port Antonio. The last 12 hours (through the night of course) was a screamer of a sail -- with only one sail up we still couldn't slow the boat down. We had a massive soaking as a huge wave found its way over and through the dodger. We hung on as Anhinga got us to the inlet. Inside, we found the marina, but no one was there yet, so we anchored to wait. A couple of hours later, the marine police came by and told us we could go alongside to wait to clear into the country. So, we picked up the anchor and found out we couldn't move the boat. The police pushed us onto the dock and we found a fishpot line around our prop. John dove on it, removed the line, and we were ok. But, we did attract lots of attention from everyone in the marina. (Sometimes you watch the show, sometimes you are the show... we were front and center that morning.) <span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Once settled in, we took care of immediate needs -- 2 months worth of laundry, an empty fridge, a hankering for jerk chicken. The marina provided the laundry facilities and a terrific restaurant overlooking the harbor. In town we found fresh vegetables at the market. We found CCs bakery and discovered the world of holey bullahs -- a new favorite food. And of course John became a devotee of Red Stripe beer. </span></div>
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">We walked all the streets of Port Antonio, a small town with nice views from the hilltops. Hiking up to Bonnie View, a closed hotel, we looked out to both bays. This port was a great initial stop, but the town, like many we visited in Jamaica, seemed sad and dilapidated. And there isn't any nice way to say it, but it was incredibly dirty. The amount of trash strewn everywhere, both organic and plastic, made Anhinga's need to pass a sanitation inspection somewhat ironic.</span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">We walked around the east bay to the Folly House, now in ruins and home to a family of goats. On that side of town we also found Folly Oval, where we watched the last cricket match of the season.</span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">What was special about Jamaica was the beauty of the mountains and the vegetation. Where the rain fell, it was lush and green -- welcoming after the months in the Bahamas where the landscapes are low, dry, and rocky. We soon learned that there was a drought; farms were dry, rivers low, waterfalls barely trickling. We decided to rent a car and go up into the Blue Mountains to see more. After a couple of hours of difficult roads, we stopped at the Holywell Park (about 4500 ft up) and took a walk on their trail. From there we had some magnificent views, cool air, pretty trees and flowers, and saw lots of hummingbirds in the fuschias. </span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">We took a break from Jamaica, flying out of Kingston to Miami, and on to Delray to visit Renee and Irv. While there, we saw a family of Egyptian Geese (which are actually ducks) first waddling across the road from the clubhouse, then taking up residence in the lake next to the tennis courts. </span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">And of course we went to the club for dinner one night -- here we are...</span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Clarence Town, Long Island, Bahamas: 23d06.154'N 74d57.104'W</span></div>
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Man of War Bay, Great Inagua, Bahamas: 21d05.235'N 73d51.897'W</span></div>
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Port Antonio, Jamaica: 18d10.988'N 76d27.411'W</span></div>
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SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-73140338160537098192015-05-25T08:41:00.000-04:002015-05-25T12:32:22.014-04:0013-23 May 2015... Up Long Island and Over to Conception IslandThompson Bay is a big cruiser hangout 'in season' but since this wasn't, it wasn't. A handful of boats anchored out. With a long to-do list, we just wanted to run through chores. We met some folks who clued us in on the essentials, like which grocery store was still open, where to get Internet, where to dispose of trash, etc. Biggest disappointment was that there was nowhere in town to do laundry -- good thing bathing suits was the prevailing wardrobe choice for the month in the Raggeds. Re-stocked and re-fueled, we were ready to launch to the next uninhabited place -- Conception Island. We left Thompson Bay and sailed up the west side of Long Island on the banks to Simms, about halfway to the northern tip. Waited for a good sailing day to go east. For those of you familiar with the Bahamas banks, you will recognize these clouds. Everything reflects the blue-green waters, and from miles away, you can see these green clouds and know that shallow waters are close by.
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After one false start, we finally got a good sailing day to Conception. A Bahamas National Park and Nature Preserve, it is yet another absolutely stunning place.
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After almost anchoring on top of a huge stingray, the next thing we noticed was that the tropicbirds were abundant here, and they were out all day. We finally saw where they went when not flying. They nest in the rocks on the beach, disappearing inside the smallest crevices.
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We spent a day kayaking down the island and into the interior lagoons and mangrove creeks, seeing a few turtles, sharks, very noisy oystercatchers, and a whole posse of baby barracuda. One day we snorkeled the reef at the north end of the anchorage and around the corner on the ocean side. (Good exercise, that, swimming against the current.) While the coral was somewhat broken and overgrown with algae, there were fish to follow. Lots of the fish were big, including at least one massive white margate. Also got up close and personal with smaller margates.
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Patti saw a huge, maybe 2 foot Nassau Grouper, that was pretty skittish and wouldn't pose for a photo, but John captured other inhabitants, including a gorgeous parrotfish that was shy but curious. Enjoy the photos!
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Thompson Bay, Long Island: 23d21.472'N 75d08.432'W
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Simms, Long Island: 23d28.788'N 75d14.610'W
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Conception Island: 23d50.994'N 75d07.216'W
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<br />SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-11876979913048946532015-05-25T08:29:00.000-04:002015-05-25T12:10:25.771-04:008-13 May 2015... Up the Ragged - Jumentos Islands ChainRetracing our steps, we sailed first to Johnson Cay -- maybe our favorite place in the Bahamas (or as the radio ad says -- Baha-mazing!) Another chance to snorkel the beautiful reef right there in the cove. But on we must go, so we continued to Buena Vista and Water Cays, and didn't even get off the boat. Just slept and moved on. Then timed our approach with the tides to the Comer Channel, popping out off the banks and into the wind, throttled up the engine for the last 10 miles into Thompson Bay, Long Island.
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Johnson Cay: 22d20.223'N 75d46.818'W
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Buena Vista Cay: 22d25.859'N 75d50.048'W
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Water Cay: 23d00.794'N 75d43.596'W
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<br />SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-15911385385334744782015-05-15T09:58:00.000-04:002015-05-15T14:14:47.071-04:002-8 May 2015... Hog CayThe cold front finally passed through and the wind was clocking back to something east. We used the opportunity to move south to Hog Cay. Then the really horrendous weather came -- high winds and nonstop rain, squalls, thunderstorms for over 48 hours as the front regressed through the southern Bahamas. We were confined to boat. That wasn't so much fun, but boy, did the deck ever get clean! There is not one ounce of salt left anywhere on the topside of Anhinga. First day we were able to get off, we dinghyed to the beach to start exploring. And who greeted us? Three goats! Right on the beach. Still have no idea how the goats got onto all these islands or whether anyone owns them. We dinghyed over to Duncan Town on Ragged Island -- got internet at the BTC office. Not much else in town -- saw more goats than people. Back at Hog we walked some of the trails, then craving fresh vegetables, we decided it was time to head north, back to civilization.
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Hog Cay: 22d14.479'N 75d45.232'W
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<br />SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-50145055031024710472015-05-15T09:51:00.000-04:002015-05-15T14:15:06.861-04:0017 April - 2 May 2015... The Ragged IslandsA short daysail took us from the Jumentos to the Raggeds -- an island chain closer to Cuba than any major island in the Bahamas. Stopped at Racoon Cay, a long island with high hills. The vegetation on this island was impenetrable, so hiking was only along the beach. We kayaked a bit to scope out the snorkeling, but the days we were there it was too rough. In four days we only saw two boats headed north. Nobody stopped here. We were really on our own. We did hear goats on the island, but never spotted any. Saw new shotgun shells on the sand. Hmmm. Decided to move on...
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After a recon run by dinghy, pulled around the corner to the prettiest little islet -- Johnson Cay -- our own private island. We staked out the middle of the cove and plunked down the anchor. Gorgeous place -- beautiful sand beach, rugged rocks, lots of green. Where does the fresh water come from to support all this green? It hadn't rained since the last cold front -- a month? Soon got the rhythm of the place, active in the morning, running for shade in the hot afternoons. The other inhabitants here, the goats, go out in late afternoon to munch shrubs. Seen at least 5... and 2 skeletons.
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Lots of snorkeling -- could just swim from the boat. Figured out the tides so we could get up close to the corals. Barracuda here, also a turtle and some rays. But the real beauty is in the smaller fish and the backdrop of the sea rods, elkhorn, and brain corals. Took a short dinghy ride to the elkhorn coral rocks south of Johnson. Beautiful fan gardens, magnificent parrotfish, elkhorn stands.
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All good things must end. Bad weather coming, so we moved to get north wind and swell protection. Once the wind moves north of west, the anchorage at Johnson gets really rolly. Took a spot a mile north between Racoon and Nairn Cays. Started our exploration -- there were coral heads everywhere, so we got into the water. Promptly got out three separate times -- chased out by a shark. Well, not literally, but when we saw the shark, we headed to the dinghy before he got interested in us. We kept trying, moving to different places, but he followed. Fourth time out, next day, he cruised by again. This time John got his portrait. Used all the books to identify him and could only come up with lemon shark, based on size (about 4-5 feet) and dorsal fins (same size). But the color was gray. Anyone have any other ideas about who was following us?
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Racoon Cay, west side: 22d21.383'N 75d48.816'W
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Johnson Cay: 22d20.245'N 75d46.806'W
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Racoon Cay, south side: 22d20.986'N 75d47.887'W
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<br />SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-77090719896630902862015-05-15T09:46:00.000-04:002015-05-15T14:15:25.293-04:0012-17 April 2015... Uninhabited Islands -- the Jumentos CaysAfter a while, Georgetown can be a little much. We got tired of all the noise and needed a respite. So, once provisioned we headed to Long Island to get around the bank to the Comer Channel -- pathway to the Jumentos and Raggeds for deeper draft vessels like us. We stopped at Simms on Long Island, another place we'd been before where we could decompress from Georgetown and time our arrival the next day at the Comer Channel. We had to go on a rising tide so that we'd have enough water under the boat.
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Good sail down there and great sail to Water Cay -- first cay in the Jumentos. OMG -- other boats! Well, only 5. We anchored half a mile from the nearest neighbor and had a really rolly night. So, we figured out another spot in a small cove and stayed there for a couple of nights. Water Cay was very pretty and we were happy to see more tropicbirds! The only other place we'd seen them was Shroud Cay up in the Park. Tried snorkeling -- way too much current the day we tried. So exercise was climbing another hill and kayaking the island. All good.
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Next stop -- Flamingo Cay. Only 2 boats this time, but they left soon after we arrived and we were on our own. Until the Bahamian fishermen came to camp on the beach. They wanted to trade lobster for beer. We didn't want the lobster, so we just gave them some beer. We did have some good snorkeling here in very shallow water. Again, triggerfish. What we thought was rare is fairly common in this part of the Bahamas.
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Simms, Long Island: 23d28.770'N 75d14.576'W
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Water Cay, Jumentos: 23d01.150'N 75d43.407'W
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Water Cay move: 23d00.606'N 75d43.600'W
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Flamingo Cay, Jumentos: 22d53.061'N 75d52.178'W
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<br />SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-50440629631487027782015-05-15T09:28:00.000-04:002015-05-15T14:15:42.754-04:0025 March - 11 April 2015... Central Exumas and South!Leaving the Park, we headed south for Black Point, a settlement on Great Guana Cay. A welcome stop with a large anchorage, and Ida's! Ida has what cruisers need -- a dinghy dock, laundry, cold drinks, and wifi -- all in one spot. It was all new five years ago when we were last here and looks just as good now. An added amenity is the gazebo overlooking the water. We took advantage of all Ida's offerings, also sending out some snail mail to the US (which took 3 weeks to arrive...oy). Trapped by a rare cold front we slipped around the corner to Little Bay to escape the worst of the NW-N wind. Parked there in front of the 'castle' -- those who've been by here know it as a landmark.
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Southbound -- time to head to Georgetown for some reprovisioning and to see how things may have changed. We had a terrific sail down the bank to Musha Cay, anchoring in front of this private island with a small resort. Some stand-up paddlers came out to watch the sun set. We watched them watch. Next day, we were out early through Cave Cay Cut to Exuma Sound. Yikes! All quiet at anchor, then rock and roll out the cut -- gotta remember to watch the current through those narrow channels.
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Another great sail south to Georgetown, with over a dozen boats heading north passing us. We figured Georgetown was emptying out. Upon arrival in Elizabeth Harbour we realized we were wrong. There were still over 200 boats anchored there. We settled on a deep spot near Monument Hill. Not many boats next to us as it requires over 100 feet of scope to anchor safely. Suits us! We jumped right in to explore the place. Not only was the town just about the same -- lots of the same cruisers were homesteaded there who were there 5 years ago. As part of our anthropological study we became part of the group and participated in several activities -- dancing on the deck at Chat 'n' Chill, hooked up to a dinghy drift, dancing at Eddy's Monday night rake n scrape, and Patti even kayaked over to morning water aerobics. We also did some kayak exploration including to Red Shanks -- where there is a replica of the Pont Neuf connecting the cays to the main island. Weird. And of course we climbed Monument Hill for the view over the harbour and the sound. Next adventure -- the Jumentos and Raggeds.
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Black Point, Great Guana Cay: 24d05.823'N 76d24.323'W
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Little Bay, Great Guana Cay: 24d04.826'N 76d23.389'W
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Musha Cay, Great Guana Cay: 23d53.543'N 76d15.997'W
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Georgetown, Great Exuma Island: 23d31.361'N 75d45.827'W
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<br />SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-46604645151233493732015-04-07T08:53:00.001-04:002015-04-07T12:53:31.149-04:0018-25 March 2015... Exuma Land and Sea ParkEager to get on to the Exuma Park, we went to Shroud Cay with Gem. There they showed us one of the mangrove channels through to the ocean side of the island. Later we kayaked another channel -- fun to see sharks and rays in this very shallow water. We surprised some ruddy turnstones who flew up as we approached -- as with everything else on the banks, their undersides reflected the green of the water. Wonderful too to see the beautiful tropicbirds in the anchorage -- unfortunately they were too high for a decent photo. So far Shroud is the only place we have seen these birds.
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Gem left us at Shroud, and we continued down to Hawksbill Cay -- the next large island in the Park. Here we anchored down near the end of the island, hoping to avoid the snugglers -- boats that feel a need to anchor close to other boats. We succeeded. There were a series of rocks nearby with fairly good snorkeling. So over the next couple of days we tried these out. Saw some old friends -- queen angelfish, bluehead wrasse, squirrelfish, grunts, white margate, blue tang, surgeonfish, bar jacks, schoolmasters along with christmas tree worms and sponges. Not a big variety of coral, but enough protection to afford these fish a home. And from the boat we saw daily parades of rays from the cut around the corner to the banks.<br />
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Next stop -- Warderick Wells Cay -- Park headquarters. Not there early enough to get a mooring, so we anchored out near Emerald Rock. Just as well, as the snorkeling was near there anyway. Again into the water and saw some things we hadn't before. Best of those was the queen triggerfish -- first in its white coloration over the sand, then watched it turn blue as it hovered over the coral head at the cleaning station. Wow, nature! Again, saw the regulars, this time adding the stoplight parrotfish, mahogany snapper, butterflyfish, blue chromis, fairy basslet, rock beauty, and a nassau grouper.
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Back to Anhinga, Patti dangling toes in the water from the dinghy, when feeling a nibble... Uhh ohh -- there ARE sharks here. But, with inspection, found that 3 sharksuckers had made their home under the boat. Sometimes they will attach themselves to divers, luckily that didn't happen. Once back aboard tried to get a photo...
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The other highlight of Warderick Wells was the hike to Boo Boo Hill. Not very high, but enough to give you perspective on the water and islands nearby. And to catch a welcome breeze after the hot desert-like trek through the bush.
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Shroud Cay: 24d32.051'N 76d47.943'W
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Hawksbill Cay: 24d27.792'N 76d46.073'W
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Warderick Wells Cay: 24d22.948'N 76d37.991'W
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<br />SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-49991117411323506922015-04-07T08:49:00.001-04:002015-04-07T11:54:56.239-04:0015-18 March 2015... On to the Exuma IslandsWe left Bonds and spent one night at Rose Island to the east of Nassau. Yikes -- very busy anchorage that night. Up early the next day and headed out during a beautiful red dawn to our first stop in the Exumas. Next day we were to meet Gem near the airplane wreck in the Normans Cut, but it looked a bit crowded in there and after a long day traveling, we settled on the west side, figuring to move in the morning. This anchorage also filled as the sun set, from 2 boats when we got there to more than a dozen.
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Moved to the wreck and started seeing tropical fish while we were anchoring. How cool is that? We headed out for an exploratory paddle through the shallows into the lagoon. Yup -- the water disappeared from under the kayak and we had to drag it along, but we got to some incredibly beautiful spots where the water was several colors of blue and green, the sand blindingly white and the cave cuts cool and eerie.
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Had a wonderful reunion with MV and Shane, met their visiting friend Albert, and planned some onward travel together. Snorkeled the wreck -- a drug smuggling plane from the 80s that didn't quite make the airstrip. Lots of sergeant major fish -- some of the males in the blue shade, camouflaged to protect the eggs nesting on the plane.
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Rose Island: 25d04.975'N 77d12.908'W
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Normans Cay (west): 24d36.163'N 76d49.356'W
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Normans Cay (cut): 24d35.680'N 76d48.399'W
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<br />SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-75118128078235245212015-04-07T08:45:00.000-04:002015-04-07T11:44:50.465-04:0012-15 March 2015... South Berry IslandsAnxious to head further south, we sought something other than a SE wind to move. It rarely came. After one aborted exit from Bullocks when we returned to the anchorage, we bit the bullet, went around the Stirrups and south down the Berry Island chain. Many anchorages were filling up with northbound sailors. Examining the charts we decided on Frozen and Alder Cays as a place to stop. After one night in an incredibly rolly anchorage (after trying 4 times to find something better) we moved to Bonds Cay - aaaahhh!! Anhinga finally settled down and we had a couple of good nights there. Again, splashed the kayak and flexed some muscles. Admired the ironstone rock formations with snails and chitons stuck on and the huge number of starfish along the bottom. Lots of rays too. And beautiful sunsets with no land between us and the horizon; John saw a green flash!
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Frozen Cay: 25d33.002'N 77d42.998'W
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Alder Cay: 25d32.452'N 77d43.338'W
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Bonds Cay: 25d29.769'N 77d43.891'W
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<br />SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-69214134413431253622015-04-07T08:38:00.001-04:002015-04-07T11:35:29.746-04:005-12 March 2015... Crossing to the Bahamas; Great Harbour CayNot a very eventful passage out Lake Worth Inlet through the Gulf Stream to Great Harbour Cay in the Berry Islands. We were pushed a bit north of our course and the wind wasn't pleasant as it was close to the nose, but we didn't expect anything else. We cleared in at the marina, but anchored outside in Bullocks Harbour. As it was 'the migration season' we watched many boats in Bullocks depart for parts north. Seemed odd as we had just arrived. Never having been on Great Harbour Cay we did have fun exploring by kayak -- great to be paddling again. The water was crystal clear and we saw sharks, rays, bonefish, and starfish alongside us as we moseyed on. We went up Shark Creek, a mangrove waterway that gave us some shade from the relentless sun. Without that, John was in full anti-sun regalia, hoorag'd up.
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Great Harbour Cay: 25d45.131'N 77d52.558'W
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<br />SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-17255223779188965232015-04-07T08:31:00.000-04:002015-04-07T11:30:13.172-04:005 January - 27 February 2015... We Had No Idea!Puttered down the ICW to the boatyard, in the slings and up. All good. On the schedule, bottom paint, watermaker check and investigating a fuel leak. Thought we'd be on the hard a week. Found out we had a hole in one of the fuel tanks and had to have it replaced. In order to remove and replace the tank, we had to remove the floor and fabricate a new tank since it was a custom fit to the hull. Huge operation. We also thought we should try to refresh the topside. We agreed to a new paint job. Supposed to be 3 weeks - with weather delays it became 6 weeks. Meantime we also got a new fuel pump for the engine room, and some other assorted goodies. We imposed on Irv & Renee and Eileen & Marvin for places to stay while the work progressed.
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Happy with our experience, we splashed on 27 Feb and motored back up to WPB. Thanks to the team at Palm Beach Yacht Center -- Brett, Barry, Edwin and their crews for taking care of us and doing fabulous work. Thanks too to Water Works (Earl) for a beautiful topside job. And to Dick at Murray Marine for giving us back our lifeline -- a working watermaker.
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While waiting for work to be completed we spent time walking around Delray at Gleneagles and Green Cay. John took lots of photos and even entered a wildlife photography contest. One of the entries was a roseate spoonbill we had seen at Green Cay. We had traveled all the way to the Mexican Yucatan to see spoonbills and didn't see any. Who knew we only needed to go a couple of miles away! Other nice shots were of herons, limpkins, and cormorants -- here are some of them.
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<br />SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-68943531195460341182015-04-06T11:32:00.000-04:002015-04-07T11:01:00.405-04:0012 December 2014 - 5 January 2015... The Palm BeachesDeparted St Augustine after some of the fog had lifted, and actually got some sailing in on the way south to Palm Beach. Entered Lake Worth and got the 9:15 Flagler Bridge opening. Gem had saved us a spot between the bridges opposite the WPB town docks. Vectored in by Shane, we settled in for a wonderful homecoming. Of course we did our thing -- walks in Palm Beach and West Palm, a photo seminar at the Society of the Four Arts, multiple visits to the gardens there, visits back and forth to Gem.
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We had a special outing with Renee and Irv, Eileen and Marvin to the Society of the Four Arts garden. Irv consulted with Churchill and Roosevelt on matters of great importance, then we met MV for brunch at the Alchemist on Clematis Street. Good time was had by all -- the small band even played Fly Me to the Moon when Irv requested a Sinatra song.
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While Shane was away working, we had MV to ourselves. New Years Eve on Anhinga proved to be more exciting than we thought -- with police and fire inspectors from the two municipalities not coordinating their approvals of our location for the fireworks. John and MV moved her boat to accommodate their request. The champagne smoothed out those issues and we were able to really enjoy the fireworks once they started. We had never been so close to fireworks before. Excellent display! Lots of oohs and aahs.
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With the new year we arranged our annual haul out at the Palm Beach Yacht Center for 5 January. Turned out to be more of a refit than we ever imagined.
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Palm Beach: 26d42.497'N 80d02.716'W
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<br />SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-63092478278939646252015-04-06T11:26:00.000-04:002015-04-07T11:05:09.318-04:00November - December 2014...Finally, NC to FL (by boat)One more trip to Delray Beach by air from New Bern, then back to Anhinga to move south. By this time, it was frigid, and we swore we would never again catch ourselves so far north this late in the year. (The marina was shutting off water to the docks because of the freeze.) Chugged down the Neuse and Adams Creek, anchored in Beaufort to wait for weather to move out the inlet and south. Lost the weather window for a change, and bit the bullet to keep driving on the ICW. That night anchored next to Camp LeJeune, eating dinner to the sound of Osprey aircraft landings. Next day, up with the frost, puttered south to Wrightsville Beach. Was it our imagination, or was it actually warming up? We started peeling layers during the day. Onward. Down the Cape Fear River, catching a 3 kt current that whooshed us south. Continuing on to sleep in the marsh at Shallotte River. Crossing into South Carolina, we felt the temperature slowly rising (or were we just being hopeful?) Back to the beautiful Waccamaw River, we settled in for a couple of days in Prince Creek -- scene of our alligator encounters from a couple of years back. Another blow was coming through and we could stay protected in the creek.
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Waited for weather to leave for an offshore passage via Winyah Bay. 10 kts in the bay, fierce 25-30 kts out the inlet (against us of course...where did this come from?) We fought our way out and as soon as we turned off the wind to put up the sails, yup, the wind died. You can't win. Driving to make miles and put the cold behind us. Next day the cold was gone and the beauty of the waters off Georgia made us forget winter. We had at least 7 dolphins swimming with us for quite a while and watching them play was the highlight of the trip. With quiet weather the next day, we pulled into St. Augustine inlet, got our mooring assignment (#25), and tied up. Florida! A few days after our arrival, Gem sailed in after their odyssey from the frigid Chesapeake. We took MV and Shane on a whirlwind tour of St Augustine, snapping their photo at Flagler College.
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19 Nov: Radio Island, Beaufort, NC 34d42.798'N 76d40.784'W
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20 Nov: Mile Hammock Bay, NC 34d33.065'N 77d19.439'W
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21 Nov: Wrightsville Beach, NC 34d12.341'N 77d47.981'W
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22 Nov: Shallotte River, NC 33d54.894'N 78d22.237'W
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23 Nov: Prince Creek, SC 33d34.885'N 79d05.832'W
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27 Nov: Winyah Bay, SC 33d13.773'N 79d11.978'W
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30 Nov: St Augustine, FL 29d53.042'N 81d18.226'W
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<br />SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-75887803169931209212015-04-06T11:17:00.000-04:002015-04-06T11:53:02.611-04:00Cruising AgainHello! We are now in the Bahamas and are working to update our blog (so we are 6 months behind...) We are loading text today -- photos to follow when we get to internet access again. Stay tuned.
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<br>for information see: <a href="http://www.sailmail.com">http://www.sailmail.com</a>SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-20684070649891826562015-02-09T14:48:00.001-05:002015-02-09T16:05:24.691-05:006-25 September 2014...On the Oregon Trail!<div dir="ltr">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">Well, sorta. Not by conestoga wagon, but by plane to PDX. We decided since son Jay was in school out there, we would take a few weeks to visit with him and travel around. For a few days we were on our own in Portland. To get a feel for the city, we stayed in a couple of different neighborhoods -- in Southeast at a guest house on Division St. and in Northwest in a Victorian house through AirBnB. We walked up Mt. Tabor in the east and through Forest Park in the west. We spent a day at the International Test Rose Garden (a must in the Rose City) and got our first views of Mt. Hood. We ate a different kind of ethnic food for each meal, drank a lot of coffee, craft beer, and Oregon wine, and learned our way around town on buses and trains. We loved our days here, but came to the conclusion that indeed, Portland is weird. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">We drove out the Columbia River Gorge, stopping at some of the parks. Wow -- howling winds out at Vista House. Who knew it could be so windy inland? We learned that the Columbia River attracts windsurfers from all over the country because you can really get moving out there. We met the crowds at Multnomah Falls, and it is easy to see why everyone goes there. <span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Lets not forget the BIGGEST attraction in the Columbia River -- the Bonneville Dam fish ladder -- first reported on by John Johnson in the 4th grade. Watched the salmon going through from a window underwater. We learned how to tell the difference between farmed fish and wild fish, and were shocked that it is so much fun watching fish swim by.</span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Again, via AirBnB, we found a terrific place to stay out in the 'Fruit Loop' -- a little barn with a view of Mt. Hood. We stopped at fruit stands and stocked up on pears, apples, and hazelnuts. (More about hazelnuts later...) Communing each night with the llama and horse out back of the little barn, we could definitely see why people from all over flock to Oregon to live. What a beautiful place.</span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">OK, so Mt. Hood. We drove up to the Cloud Cap trailhead and hiked up from there. Not to the peak, but high enough to see the top as well as Mt Adams, Mt St Helens, and Mt Rainier in the distance. We didn't find out till later that the road up the mountain had just opened. Big forest fires a couple of years back felled trees that were blocking the road. Again there were fires to the west, and the smoke traveled miles. You can see it streaking the sky in our photos.</span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">On to Corvallis. After picking up Jay at PDX drove south to Oregon State University. Watched the race car being delivered from Europe and helped unpack the crate and get the car settled back in the shop. Four races -- four wins. Great job, Global Formula Racing!</span></div>
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Took Jay out to the coast. First stop, Cape Perpetua -- beautiful rocky coast in central Oregon -- Thor's Well, Devil's Churn -- the power of the water is evident here. Loved the hike.</span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Up to Newport for lunch and then on to Depoe Bay, where we stayed at an apartment right on the coast. From the balcony overlooking the sea we saw whales! Right there! Next day took a boat ride to see them up close. Easy to see -- harder to photograph.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">We followed the coast north to Astoria, near the mouth of the Columbia River. Historic port city, remaking itself as an arts center and of course a craft beer hub. We walked up the Astoria Column for more views. Stayed in a frilly B&B -- perfect for Jay!</span></div>
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<span style="color: white; font-size: small; letter-spacing: 0px;">Drove back through beautiful country to Corvallis. While Jay was busy with school and car stuff, we explored, went to the farmers market in town, and visited the Tyee vineyard south of town. Had to hit at least one Willamette Valley winery, right? In addition to grapes, they grow hazelnuts here. Lots of nut growers here. Did you know that Oregon grows 99% of the US hazelnut crop? And that it is the state nut? Nuff said. There is so much to love about Oregon, we were sorry to leave. But Anhinga was waiting back in North Carolina.</span><br />
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SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-65293281313012359692015-02-08T18:04:00.001-05:002015-02-08T18:26:38.275-05:00July - November 2014...New Bern, NC<div dir="ltr">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">Once we finished congratulating ourselves on Anhinga's performance during the hurricane, we started making different plans for the rest of the 'summer'. We knew we needed to find a safe place outside the hurricane box where we could leave the boat while traveling by air to Pittsburgh, Florida, and Oregon. There is terrific access anywhere in the country from New Bern's airport, itself a short hop from Charlotte, NC. So we looked for a dock nearby and were extremely happy with the Bridgepointe Marina. Anhinga moved in, originally for 3 months, but ended staying into November! This gave us plenty of time to get to know New Bern and the upper Neuse River, and to travel with the confidence that Anhinga would be safe. (Thanks to Jesse and Mark, the dockmasters, who watched after her for us!)</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">New Bern was settled early in the 18th century by Baron de Graffenried from Switzerland (hence <i>New </i>Bern). Lots of interesting buildings in the old downtown from every period since then, including the Governors Mansion from the days when England ruled. And there are still reminders of the civil war around. In July when we first arrived the crape myrtle trees were in bloom; the town was gorgeous. We had ample opportunity to walk in the 'Bear City' as the marina was just across the bridge. </span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">We took advantage of many opportunities to hear music in town, including the festival where 3 different bands played the same song on the same day (if you're gonna play in Texas, you gotta have a fiddle player in the band). And we happened to still be in New Bern when the big Mumfest hit town. </span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">So, one may ask why we were still in North Carolina... Well, long story short, lets just say that we are now qualified marine plumbers, having replaced our toilet with a sparkling new model. John might say we stayed longer so that he could be close to the home of the Beer Army. You know, Heroes Never Die.</span></span></div>
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SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-82927984264046209442015-02-08T16:14:00.001-05:002015-02-08T16:19:19.996-05:00Note to Readers....<div dir="ltr">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">We have heard from some who are wondering whether we are still cruising as we have not updated our blog for so long. OK, we are bowing to pressure and will start the updates. Stay tuned!</span></div>
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SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1658973304150796776.post-54092596316397926822014-07-12T14:26:00.000-04:002014-07-12T14:33:19.013-04:00July 2-5, 2014... Hurricane Arthur!<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">So, here we are, the end of June, now land people in Delray Beach, FL. We hear of a possible tropical low forming off the Florida coast that is likely to track up the SE US and pass close to or, make landfall in eastern North Carolina! Anhinga is in a marina, not even a mile from the Beaufort inlet, where the winds and tides really plow into the boats at the docks during normal weather. With a tropical storm or perhaps a hurricane headed there, we knew we needed to move the boat. So, Tuesday, back into the car, up I-95 again for another 13 hour trip, and to the slip. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">Checking the charts for a likely hurricane hole, Wednesday we moved Anhinga about 20 miles north to Southwest Creek off the South River, off the Neuse River, off the Pamlico Sound. Anchor down in the early evening, we sat smack dab in the middle of the creek, with about 1-2 feet of water below us and 100 feet of chain sunk in the mud. We were alone in the creek -- we saw only 3 other boats in the entire stretch of the South River as we came through. Thursday we prepared the boat, took down the canvas, tied everything down that we could think of that would fly, and waited. In the afternoon, the rain began to fall, and winds started to pick up a bit. </span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">Our cell coverage was spotty; our internet access was very limited. We had radio and heard that the bands were starting to come ashore at Atlantic Beach and Morehead City. The waiting was difficult. Finally, around 8:30pm there was more wind. By 10pm we were seeing winds in the 20-35 knot range. Checking the winds every half hour, we saw our highest winds about an hour later, just under 50 knots. By this time the storm had come ashore at Shackleford Banks as a Category 2 hurricane, clocking 101mph there (or about 80 knots). Our spot in Southwest Creek was protecting us from the fiercest winds. The eye of the storm passed right over us. The winds dropped to nothing, and we took some deep breaths. Were we done with the worst? No!!! In about an hour, we got the backside of the eye, which was worse than the front. The winds were not any higher, but the direction had changed and the water in the creek got steeper, giving us a little more of a bumpy ride. John figured we would be fine and went to sleep. Patti stayed up till about 3am, just to be sure that we were ok.</span></span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">The rain fell all night. The deck got a great washdown. Next morning, all was clear and beautiful. And, we had not moved an inch!! It took a while to get moving, putting the boat back together. We stayed over on Friday night, July 4th (our independence day from the hurricane) and left on Saturday the 5th to return to Beaufort.</span></span><br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white; font-size: small;">Southwest Creek: 34d55.082’N 76d33.013’W</span></span></div>
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SV Anhingahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03466731964721664802noreply@blogger.com2